Principles of Flight [Part 1]

The helicopter as we know it today is a complex aircraft capable of flight maneuvers of hover, vertical, forward, backward, and sideward flight. In spite of the fact that the helicopter is capable of maneuvers that are not possible for fixed wing aircraft, it still operates on of the same basic principles.

The need for maintenance personnel to study these principles may not be apparent at first. However, it is very necessary because a thorough knowledge will be required to understand the maintenance and troubleshooting practices of the various  systems.

Like fixed wing aircraft, the helicopter flies because of its airfoils. The airfoils of the fixed wings are primarily their wings. However, the tail surfaces amd sometimes the fuselage, as well as the propeller may also be airfoils. The primary airfoil of the helicopter is the MAIN ROTOR. For this reason, the helicopter is often referred to as a ROTARY WING aircraft. An airfoil, by definition, is any surface which gets a useful dynamic reaction from the air.

For our purposes, this reaction is the lift and thrust which will be necessary for flight and maneuvering.

AERODYNAMIC PRINCIPLES


The blades of the main rotor are the airfoils. With theses airfoils certain nomenclature is used.

The span of the blade is the distance from the root of the blade to the tip of the blade, measured along the center line.

If a cross section of the blade is shown, it may have an imaginary line drawn from the leading edge to the trailing edge. This line is referred to as the chord of the blade.

The shape of the airfoil section may take many different forms. This shape actually affects the flight characteristics of the aircraft. Certain airfoils are noted for high speed, while others are known for low speed, high lift, and supersonic characteristics.

The airfoils which are used for helicopters are usually referred to as symmetrical airfoils, meaning that the airfoil section has the same shape above and below the chord line. This curvature of the airfoil is referred to as the camber. Some successful designs have been built with an unsymmetrical airfoil, meaning that the top and bottom camber are not the same shape.

Some efforts are being made to change the airfoil shape along the span to achieve better flight characteristic in the blade.



1. Relative Wind

As the rotor blade moves, it is subjected to relative wind. The relative wind is the direction of the airflow with respect to the blade. This is always opposite the flight path of the blade. For example, if the blade moves forward horizontally, the relative wind moves backward horizontally. If the blade moves backward horizontally, the relative wind moves forward horizontally. If the blade moves forward and upward, the relative wind moves backward and downward. If the blade moves backward and downward, the relative wind moves forward and upward.

At first, one might wonder how the blade can move backwards. It must be remembered that this is in relation to the nose of the helicopter. For this reason, the forward moving blade is referred to as the ADVANCING BLADE, while the backward blade is called the RETREATING BLADE. The relative wind may be affected by several factors such as movement of the rotor blades, horizontal movement of the helicopter, flapping of the rotor blade, wind speed, and direction. The relative wind of the helicopter is the flow of air with respect to the rotor blade. For example; when the rotor is stopped, the wind blowing over the rotor blades creates a relative wind. When the helicopter is hovering in a no-wind condition, the relative wind is created by the motion of the rotor blades. If the helicopter  is hovering in a wind,the relative wind is a combination of the wind and the rotor blade movement. When the helicopter is in forward flight, the relative wind is created by the rotor blades, the movement of the helicopter, and possibly a wind factor.

Helicopter In Use Today [Part 3]

Previous --- Part 2



HUGHES HELICOPTERS

1. Hughes HU-269

Hughes began to build helicopters in the 1950's. Their first production was the Model 269, a simple two-place reciprocating powered helicopter. A great number of these aircraft were manufactured for the military. Large numbers have also been manufactured for civilian use and are being used for such tasks as training, agricultural, and police work. Like most of the smaller helicopters, the Hughes 269 has been built in several different models.


2. Hughes 369 (500 series)

In the early 1960's, Hughes started production of a turbine powered helicopter in the same category as the Bell 206 and the Fairchild Hiller 1100. These three helicopters were the result of a military competitive contract design for a light observation helicopter. The Hughes entry won, resulting in a large contract with the military.

The civilian production of the 369, which is the FAA designation of the 500 series, was limited during the military contract, but increased when this contract ended. This helicopter series may be found today in all parts of the world in corporate, agriculture, and construction work.

Like the Bell Jet Ranger, it has been built in several models. Hughes helicopters are now part of  McDonnell Douglas which has long been known for fixed wing aircraft. The 369 series will continue to be produced by McDonnell Douglas, but the 269C is now being produced by Schweizer Aircraft.

 


SIKORSKY HELICOPTERS


1. Sikorsky S55

Production of Sikorsky helicopters began in 1942 with the R4 helicopter for the military. This helicopter was built prior to the Bell 47, but early Sikorskies were not certified because they were built for the military. The first civilian certified Sikorsky was the S51 model. It was certified in April 1947, shortly after the Bell 47. Both the S1 and the S52 were manufactured in small numbers and it is quite doubtful if any of these exist today.

The S55 series, however, established Sikorsky as the manufacturer of large helicopters, even if they would not be considered large by today's standards.

At present some of these helicopters are still in use, mainly in lift work and large agricultural operations.


 2. Sikorsky S58

The S55 soon led the way for the production of the S58 which was larger and more powerful than the S55. This model enjoyed a long production with the civilian model and it's military counterpart, the H34. This popularity led the helicopter to all parts of the world. It was used in the early helicopter airline concept and became a standard.

Today the S58 is used in lift operations and has been converted to a turbine powerplant. This will extend the S58's life even more. 


3. Sikorsky S61

Sikorsky introduced the S61 helicopter in 1961, and it is still being produced. The S61 is much larger than the S58 and was brought into production with twin turbine power. It has been used as a commuter transport and is used by the petroleum support industry.


4. Sikorsky S64

One of the most interesting helicopters that was manufactured by Sikorsky was the S64. It was the first attempt by any manufacturer to build a special purpose helicopter. Only a few of these machines were ever manufactured, but it is felt that this was a noteworthy accomplishment.


5. Sikorsky S76

The latest of the Sikorsky models is the S76. It is primarily aimed at the corporate industry, but will also be used in the petroleum support industry. The newest version of the S76 will soon be in production. Among other features, this version will include a new powerplant system.

Helicopter In Use Today [Part 2]

Previous --- Part 1

3. Bell 205

Following the development of the 204B were two improved versions of this aircraft. These are the Bell 205A and the Bell 205-A1.

The 205-A1 has experienced a long production run since its inception in 1968, with new aircraft being manufactured until 1978. The major use of this series has been in the petroleum support industry.



4. Bell 206

During the time in which the 204 and 205 series helicopters were being built to meet the market of a turbine-powered 10 to 15 passenger helicopter, a smaller turbine-powered helicopter was placed on the market -- the Model 206, better known as the Jet Ranger.

The 206 was first certificated in 1964. Because of its size and versatility it immediately found a substantial outlet in the civilian market. At the present time it enjoys an unprecedented popularity in many areas which include corporate, agriculture, construciton, petroleum support, and ambulance service. This helicopter may be found in almost all areas of the world performing various missions.



5. Bell 212

In addition to the large single turbine helicopters built by Bell, an additional twin engine was added to the Bell fleet -- Model 212. The 212 added twin engine reliability and IFR capability to the helicopters used for petroleum support and construction.



6. Bell 222

The latest of the Bell models to go into production is the Model 222. This helicopter is primarily aimed at the corporate market because of the twin turbine reliability and IFR capability. 



7. Bell 412

The Bell Model 412 is a growth version of the 212. Among the changes made to the aircraft include a four-bladed rotor system and a nodal beam vibration system. These added features have greatly contributed to passenger comfort. These helicopters are widely used by the petroleum support industry.



8. Bell 214ST

The newest of the Bell helicopter line is the Model 214ST. This model was developed as a joint venture of Bell and Iran. With the fall of their government, the helicopter development was completed by Bell. This model may be equipped with either skid gear or wheels and because of its range and carrying capability, is basically used for offshore oil work.




HILLER HELICOPTERS


1. Hiller UH-12

Shortly after the certification of the Bell 47, an other light helicopter went into production, the Hiller 12. The Hiller, like the Bell 47, was manufactured in a number of different models and enjoyed popularity  as both a civilian and a military helicopter. Although it may not have enjoyed the same popuplarity as the Bell, a great number of various models of the Hiller 12 are still in use today. In fact, the Hiller 12E is still being produced in small numbers as both a reciprocating-powered and as a turbine-powered helicopter. Like the Bell 47, the Hiller has been employed in numerous tasks which include training, agriculture, construction, and forestry. They are found through out the world, with one of the highest concentrations in the northwestern United States. Many operators prefer the Hiller for sling load operations because of its load carrying capabilities.


2. Hiller FH-1100

In addition to the Hiller 12, another model was built and marketed. This model, known as the FH-1100, was a five-place turbine helicopter and was marketed by the newly mergered Fairchild Hiller Corporation. This model did not obtain the popularity of the Hiller 12 and production was dropped after a few years. However, the 1100 is now back into production. Today there are still a limited number of the older 1100's operating.

Next --- Part 3

What is Turbine Engine?

Turbine is actually something that when a force applied to it, then it will ROTATE...that is TURBINE...

for example, windmill. When big amount of air (force) applied to the windmill, the windmill will rotate. That is TURBINE

so how about TURBINE ENGINE? turbine engine use the same principle. When the HOT air passed by the TURBINE, the turbine will rotate. As the turbine rotate, the compressor also rotating (because of the shaft connected directly between COMPRESSOR and TURBINE). So as the compressor rotate, more air will be SUCKED by the engine and it will keep rotating.

If you are a car's fan, you must know about TURBO-charger that is used widely in car, right? TURBO also come from word 'TURBINE'. Turbo use same principal. Turbo consist of two part BASICALLY; compressor and turbine. Turbine located after the exhaust and compressor before the air intake. As the exhaust air pass through the turbine, the turbine will rotating, thus will rotate also the compressor. When the compressor turning, more air will be SUCKED to the engine. More air means more oxygen. More oxygen will create a very good COMBUSTION because to BURN something, you need oxygen.


How people get an idea about developing TURBINE ENGINE?

• Observation of natural world (Squid)
• Newton's Third Law

Newton's third law of motion states that for every action there is an equal an opposite reaction. Jet propulsion applies this law by accelerating a quantity of air through an orifice (or nozzle). The acceleration of the air is the action and forward movement is the reaction.

In nature, a squid propels itself through the water using a form of jet propulsion. A squid takes (SUCKS) sea water into it's body and uses its muscles to add energy to the water(COMPRESS), then expels the water in the form of a jet. This action produces a reaction that propels the squid forward.

SQUID = suck water --> compress it --> release the water --> producing forward movement

TURBINE engine = suck air(inlet) --> compress --> COMBUSTION mixture fuel/air --> to release the air with very high speed --> producing forward movement


p/s: Many technological developments are made by observations of the natural world. A squid propels itself through the water by jet reaction.

As early as 250 B.C., a writer and mathematician named Hero devised a toy using this reaction principle. The toy, called the aeolipile, consisted of a covered kettle of water that was heated to produce steam. The steam was routed through two vertical tubes into a spherical container. Attached to the sphreical container were several discharge tubes arranged radially around the container. As steam filled the container, it would escape through the discharge tubes causing the sphere to rotate.

A modern example of Newton's reaction principle is observed when the end of an inflated balloon is released. As the air in the balloon rushes out the opening, the balloon flies wildly around a room. In spite of the everyday examples, scientific efforts to apply Newton's reaction principle to mechanical designs were largely unsuccessful until the 20th century.

Helicopters In Use Today [Part 1]

The helicopters in use today cover a period of time from 1947 to the present. They have gone from being a novelty to being the work horse of the aviation industry, performing tasks of every imaginable description. In this period, the industry developed a large commercial fleet which has exceeded the air carrier and corporate aviation fleets in size. This unprecedented growth did not occur by accident but because of the versatility of the machine and the ingenuity of the operators seeking new possibilities for their use as a fast and efficient method of completing various tasks, including construction, agriculture, forestry, and business. At this time there is probably no area of the economy that is not touched by the helicopter in some manner.

To meet the ever-increasing demand to fulfill the needs of the helicopter operators, manufacturers have increased the reliability, decreased the maintenance requirements, and designed new helicopters. They include three generations of machines, from reciprocating two-place helicopters to those that are turbine powered and carry many passengers. Because of the many different types, it is important to know about those in use today and their capabilities as described in this section.




BELL HELICOPTERS

1. Bell 47
The Bell 47, in 1946, was the first helicopter to receive civilian certification. This helicopter enjoyed a long production life, until 1974, when it became too expensive to manufacture. During this period it was manufactured in a great number of models and its components have been used to build special purpose helicopters. It is also presently being converted to turbine powerplants. This helicopter once enjoyed such popularity that more Bell 47's were in use than any other helicopter in the world. Although this is no longer true, they are still in wide use today, performing numerous tasks such as flight training, agricultural work, traffic control, etc. It will undoubtedly lose its popularity as new and more modern equipment is introduced, but at this time it could certainly be considered the DC-3 of the helicopter industry.

Because of the great number of models manufactured, each individual model cannot be shown. The following is a list of the various models and their major differences. Of course this list cannot point out all the differences of the various models of this helicopter. Because of the great numbers built for civilian and military use, and the continual updating of the older models, no attempt will be made to give the number of them in existence.




2.  Bell 204

From its beginning with the Bell 47, the company grew, building several additional, models for civilian and military use. Many of the military models were modified in design and later became civilian models.

The 204B model was a derivative of the U-H1 series of helicopters built for the military. Although the two helicopters appear very similar in appearance, many changes were made between the civilian and the military aircraft, including the length of the tailboom, baggage area, and rotor blades.

The 204B is an 11-place helicopter with turbine power. Although built in small numbers, the 204B paved the way for the turbine-powered helicopter and the use of such helicopters by the petroleum support industry.

Next --- Part 2

Cara Tukar Minyak Hitam Kancil

Tukar Minyak Hitam..inilah perkara pertama yang aku belajar mengenai maintenance kereta........masa mula2 dapat kereta, tak tahu nak buat apa....

yang aku tahu hanyalah TARIK DIPSTICK minyak hitam dan CHECK berapa banyak lagi...kalau tak cukup, tambah je minyak hitam....tapi aku sama sekali tidak tahu bagaimana nak DRAIN minyak hitam yang sedia ada,, dan ganti dengan yang baru......

TAPI sebenarnya caranya amatlah mudah sekali.....

so macam biasa, PERTAMA sekali ,,, sediakan BARANG2 dahulu....






BARANG2 yang diperlukan ialah:

• Spanar 14mm (aku selalu guna yg jenis HINGED SOCKET SPANAR) --->WAJIB ADA
  

• Minyak Silinder@Minyak Hitam (aku selalu beli yang mineral jenis CASTROL 10W-30) --->WAJIB ADA
  

• Oil Filter --->OPTIONAL (tak tukar, takpe...tapi BETTER tukar terus alang-alang tukar minyak hitam) 
  

•  Oil Filter Wrench --->OPTIONAL (kalau nak tukar FILTER, kena ada menatang ni..kalau takde memang tak boleh bukak kecuali tangan popeye...yang aku ada sekarang ni jenis CHAIN..chain ni kelebihannya, setiap SAIZ OIL FILTER kita boleh guna, tak kisahlah kereta proton ke, perodua ke apa ke)
  

• Sarung tangan --->OPTIONAL (kalau tak nak tangan hitam, pakai sarung tangan...kalau tak pakai, memang le hitam tangan, tapi JANGAN bimbang, boleh dicuci..haha)

• Bekas Tadahan --->OPTIONAL (kalau takde bekas tadahan, memang habis licin lantai,, perlu diketahui minyak hitam ni susah nak dihilangkan..so BETTER tadah la minyak hitam, lepas tu buang lah kat tempat yang sepatutnya...bekas tadahan tu selalunya aku ambil BOTOL minyak hitam yang sebelum ni yang dah habis digunakan,,and then ambik pisau, JUST potong bahagian tepi botol tu...aku rasa korang boleh pikir sendiri lah macam mana nak buat bekas tadahan..)
  

• Corong Turas (Funnel) --->OPTIONAL (kalau takde, boleh guna botol air..senang je...potong je bahagian bawah dan buang tudung botol tersebut,,dan terhasillah corong turas buatan sendiri)

 ok barang dah cukup,,,so boleh la memulakan PEKERJAAN kita ya....






CARA-CARANYA adalah seperti berikut:

1. First sekali, sediakan BEKAS TADAHAN dan letak  bawah BOLT saiz 14 tu (BOLT tu ORANG PUTIH panggil "OIL DRAIN PLUG",,sebabnya bila kita bukak BOLT tu, segala minyak hitam di dalam enjin itu akan keluar melalui lubang itu..dan lokasi BOLT tu berada di bawah enjin..senang je cari, sbb BOLT ni berada di LEVEL paling bawah sekali...kira macam TANGKI air kat rumah kita,,kalau nak buang air dalam tangki tu, kena bukak PAIP kat bawah TANGKI tu..kalau letak PAIP tu kat bahagian atas sedikit,,,mungkin air akan keluar juga,,,tapi akan ada tertinggal baki sedikit dalam tangki tu...sebab itu lah, ia diletakkan kat bahagian paling bawah sekali untuk memastikan semuanya keluar..rasanya benda ni tak perlu explain,,tapi dah terlanjur explain,,so layan je lah)
   
2. Ambil spanar saiz 14mm, buka OIL DRAIN PLUG tadi,,dan minyak hitam dalam enjin itu akan keluar secara perlahan-lahan...bukak OIL CAP (lokasi OIL CAP berada di atas enjin..senang je cari,, tengok yang ada logo minyak..ataupun tengok gambar kat bawah yang BERNOMBOR 8),,bukak OIL CAP bertujuan untuk memastikan semua minyak tadi keluar dan bertujuan juga untuk melajukan pengeluaran minyak hitam tu (kalau orang belajar FIZIK, dia akan tahu kenapa bila bukak OIL CAP boleh melajukan pengeluaran minyak tu...sama macam TIN SUSU kat rumah...kenapa MAK kita selalu tebuk dua lubang...kenapa tak satu lubang je?? pikir-pikir la sendiri ya...takde masa nak explain kat sini..)
3. Ok sekarang tiba masanya untuk buat kerja yang agak sukar sedikit iaitu MENUKAR OIL FILTER...tak susah pun sebenarnya..tapi yang menjadikannya susah adalah kerana ruang yang sempit.. untuk NEWBIE, better pakai OIL FILTER WRENCH yang bentuk socket punya,,saiz mesti saiz OIL FILTER kereta kancil....saiz aku tak pasti berapa MM, berapa inci....tapi kalau beli WRENCH yang jenis CHAIN,,tak kisah apa saiz.....
   
4. Cara tukar oil filter senang sahaja...gunakan OIL FILTER WRENCH,, dan longgarkan OIL FILTER yang sedia ada kat enjin tu...bila dah longgar, tanggalkannya dengan cara pulas menggunakan tangan je...
5. Bila dah tanggal, ambil OIL FILTER yang BARU,,,letak sedikit MINYAK SILINDER yang baru di jari korang,, dan sapukan pada BIBIR OIL FILTER BARU itu...ini adalah bertujuan untuk MENGELAKKAN OIL FILTER tadi terlalu KETAT sehinggakan susah nak bukak OIL FILTER untuk NEXT MAINTENANCE nanti....selepas itu, masukkan OIL FILTER BARU tadi dan pulas dengan tangan sahaja sehingga ketat...jangan TERLALU KETAT..agak-agak dah rasa ketat tu, OK LAH...jangan bimbang,, ia tidak akan LEAKING...sebab bila enjin start je,,OIL FILTER ni dia akan jadi seolah-olah tersedut ke dalam...so jangan bimbang....
6. Ok,, sekarang boleh pergi minum-minum dulu..nak makan pun boleh...lama takpe, biar KELUAR HABIS minyak kat dalam tu...selalu kalau kat bengkel,,dia tunggu 5-10 minit je, pastu terus tuang minyak BARU...sedangkan minyak HITAM kat dalam tu belom keluar habis lagi...so sebab itulah BETTER buat sendiri...
7. Ok,,dah siap makan minum semua...tutup OIL DRAIN PLUG tadi..pulas dengan tangan je..tak perlu rapat sangat...letak FUNNEL di lubang minyak (kat oil cap tadi),,, dan tuang sedikit minyak baru ke dalam enjin..sedikit sahaja....TUNGGU sekejap...kemudian bukak balek OIL DRAIN PLUG...kita akan nampak sebenarnya masih ada sedikit lagi minyak hitam yang belum keluar dan dengan menggunakan cara ni, minyak hitam yang tertinggal tadi akan keluar habis......
8. Bila kita dah yakin semua minyak hitam tadi dah dibuangkan,,,baru lah kita TUTUP dan ketatkan balek OIL DRAIN PLUG tadi...
9. Kemudian TUANG minyak yang baru ke dalam enjin...jangan sampai SATU BOTOL..isi 3/5 je dari botol tu...2/5 lagi yang tinggal dalam botol tu kita simpan..bila minyak berkurangan nanti, boleh kita gunakan baki minyak tadi dan tambah ke dalam enjin....pastikan LEVEL minyak hitam ni berada pada paras antara minimum dan maximum...senang crita kat dipstick tu, level minyak berada pada TENGAH2...itu yang terbaik...
10. Tutup OIL CAP,,,,SIAP!!!!!!!!...

rasanya explaination kat atas tu terlalu panjang dan agak pening sedikit bagi yang masih NEWBIE lagi dalam bidang maintenance kereta...takpe takpe,,, aku akan menyimplekan(ringkaskan) lagi penerangan aku tadi..

1. letak bekas tadahan kat bawah
2. bukak oil drain plug
3. sambil tunggu minyak hitam keluar, tukar OIL FILTER dulu
4. bila dah keluar semua minyak hitam, TUTUP oil drain plug
5. TUANG minyak hitam yang baru
6. siap  

senang gilerrr kan?????? orang pakai kereta yang tak reti nak tukar minyak hitam, aku tak tahu lah nak cakap apa....

cuma ye lah kadang-kadang orang yang baru pakai kereta ni, dia takut nak buat apa-apa maintenance kat keretanya sebab takut rosak...mungkinlah...aku pun tak tahu...ataupun mungkin diorang malas...ataupun diorang banyak duit...

tapi takpe lah,, tak perlu difikirkan diorang..

yang penting kita ni,,kalau nak berjimat dan dijamin SELAMAT, baik buat sendiri....


sebab kalau orang lain buat,, kadang-kadang dia tak ikhlas....maklum la banyak orang hantar kereta kat dia..nak nak waktu tu MOOD dia tak berapa ok..so dia pun main buat SEKADAR OK sahaja dan BUKAN BUAT BERSUNGGUH-SUNGGUH....macam yang aku cerita tadi,, buang minyak 5 minit je, pastu terus tuang minyak baru...tak elok la tu....ok? ada faham?? malas nak explain banyak-banyak....bak kata nabil "lu pikirla sendiri"....

(Sambungan) Masalah RPM Fluctuated

Ini adalah sambungan dari POST yang sebelum ni iaitu
Masalah RPM fluctuated...boleh klik disini untuk baca


Ok..selepas masalah ni muncul kembali, aku teringat pasal GAP clearance tuh..member aku cakap 0.8mm..so, aku research balik dalam GOOGLE....aku mendapati GAP yang ok adalah antara 0.05 mm hingga ke 0.15 mm....ini bermakna KAWAN aku pun sebenarnya tak tahu pasal GAP tu dan dia main hentam je...aku pulak salah faham apa yang aku stadi kat internet...so, aku yakin ini mesti masalah nilai GAP tu TAK BETOL....

tapi aku masih tak buat apa2 lagi..aku masih tak repair lagi..enjin tetap macam tu lah,, bergegar gegar, rpm naik turun naik turun...

sampailah hari ni,,

pagi tadi, pukul 10 pagi,,,aku nak pergi kerja...aku pergi la start kereta,, tapi malangnya ENGINE tak HIDUP.......

nak tak nak,,, aku terpaksa la try repair sendiri kereta aku....so, hari TU aku dah tengok macam mana member aku bukak menatang distributor tu dan menukar contact point...so aku dah tahu semua,, hari ni aku cuba nak bukak sendiri dia punya distributor tu,, dan apa yang aku plan adalah aku ingin adjust balek dia punya CLEARANCE GAP kat contact point tu....



TOOLS yang diperlukan ialah:

1. spanar 12mm (kalau boleh cari yang senang masuk, pasal dalam kereta tu dia sempit..pakai combination konfom tak boleh bukak,, pakai L spanar boleh...T spanar pon boleh tapi kena bukak dulu lah Bateri Kereta...aku selalu pakai HINGED socket spanar sebagaimana yang dalam gambar kat bawah ni...)
2. skru driver bunga..
3. Feeler gauge measure (ataupun nama lain Clearance Blade, Blade Measurement, Tolok Pelarasan) ...kalau tak tahu macam mana rupanya,,jangan bimbang,, ada gambar...tengok gambar bawah ni
   

 p/s: Feeler gauge measure ni kadang-kadang orang tak tahu sebab jarang guna...oleh kerana itu, aku ceritalah serba sedikit mengenai FEELER GAUGE MEASURE.....feeler gauge measure ni adalah bertujuan untuk mengukur GAP antara dua benda, contoh macam contact point tu lah...
Feeler gauge measure ni menggunakan UNIT hundredths milimeter ... maksudnya kalau kat blade tu ada tertulis 15, bermaksud nilai yang sebenar adalah 0.15 milimeter..begitulah juga dengan nilai yang lain, 5 bermaksud 0.05 mm.....








ok TOOLS semua aku dah ada...

jadi bermulalah aksi aku untuk repair aku punya CONTACT POINT (first time bukak sendiri distributor nih)..


Solution #2:

1. pertama sekali cabut dulu KABEL PLUG (spark plug harness)...pastikan ingat kedudukan cable plug tu...selalunya kat KABEL tu ada tertulis nombor...setiap kabel ada nombor...selalunya susunannya, dari kiri, 1 ,2, 3...
2. guna spanar 12mm dan bukak BOLT pada distributor...aku punya ada SATU je bolt...bukak SATU BOLT tu,then TARIK je DISTRIBUTOR keluar...hati2 kalau ada wayar yang perlu ditanggal, tanggal je..tapi pastikan boleh sambung balik lepas dah pasang nanti.
3. cabut KLIP pada distributor...ada dua KLIP (atas dan bawah)..caranya senang, cuma tarik je hujung klip tu...bila KLIP dah cabut, bermakna DISTRIBUTOR CAP pun boleh ditanggalkan..
4. lepas dah tanggal dia punya DISTRIBUTOR CAP...tanggal dia punya ROTOR..senang je, tarik je ROTOR tu...
5. tanggal cover dan akan nampaklah CONTACT POINT tu.... beginilah rupanya CONTACT POINT 
6. longgarkan dua skru supaya kita boleh adjust dia punya GAP...(macam mana nak adjust GAP tu??, aku rasa korang boleh pikir sendiri...cuma perlu MAIN dua skru tu je..)
7. lepas tu ambil FEELER GAUGE MEASURE dan pilih blade yang bernilai 10...dan letakkan pada GAP tu (tapi sebelum tu perlu pusingkan shaft supaya bahagian TINGGI shaft tu terkena PENANDA contact point tu dan contact point tu akan terbuka)....so aku letak feeler gauge measure berukuran 0.10mm pada GAP tu,,ternyata memang BETOL member aku buat GAP tu terlalu besar, sebab itu lah engine aku problem sampai bergegar gegar enjin...
8. kemudian aku rasa korang dah pandai macam nak buat..letak je feeler gauge measure berukuran 10 tu pada gap tu, dan pastikan dua2 bahagian contact point tu menyentuh feeler gauge measure dan ketatkan dua skru tadi..(kalau takde FEELER GAUGE,,korang main FEEL je lah..agak2 je GAP dia tu..)
9. akhir sekali, pasang balik semua yang ditanggalkan.

lepas dah siap semua,,,,aku pun cuba lah start kereta....


PERGHHHHHHHHHHHH,,,, berjaya!!...enjin ok macam biasa....enjin takde dah bergegar gegar..RPM mencecah 2.5k....dan bila dah panas, dia turun slow2 ke 1.3k....

so kesimpulannya disini, dalam repair/replace contact point,, GAP tu amat penting ....mesti antara 0.05mm hingga 0.15mm


mesti KORANG susah nak faham kan?? takpe, aku selitkan satu video ni untuk memudahkan korang faham...dan insyaAllah, aku akan edit balek nanti untuk tambah gambar apa yang patut supaya korang boleh NAMPAK apa yang aku cuba terangkan..

Masalah RPM fluctuated

Masalah:

Waktu pagi/subuh kalau NORMAL, kebiasaannya bila start enjin, RPM akan naik hingga 2.5k (bertujuan untuk memanaskan enjin),,,dan RPM akan turun slow2 sehinggalah jarum RPM menuju 1.2k dan maintain di situ..tapi masalah sekarang ini, walaupun waktu subuh, RPM tunjuk dekat jarum 1k je...kadang2 dia turun hampir mencecah 0..dan kadang2 naik balik..jarum RPM jadi tak menentu (FLUCTUATED)..dan kadang-kadang bila naik turun naik turun,,, TUPPPP terus mati enjin




Solution #1:

Aku punya la research di internet (google dan sebagainya)...akhirnya aku mendapati Contact Breaker Point (selalunya orang panggil contact point je) yang rosak,,,dan perlu ditukar baru....so aku apa lagi, aku beli contact point kat kedai....RM10 je harganya...dan aku call member aku yang boleh la sikit-sikit repair kereta....aku call dia suruh tukar aku punya contact point..aku tahu contact point tu ada dalam distributor..tapi aku tak tahu caranya macam mana nak tukar..kan takut tersilap, habis rosak satu enjin..so aku mintak lah dia tolong tukarkan...

sewaktu dia tukarkan tu, ada satu benda yang aku tak suka dengan apa yg dia buat....dia tukar,, tapi dia tak ukur GAP antara point tu...sebab aku tengok dalam internet GAP dia tak boleh luas sangat..dan tak boleh rapat sangat...jaraknya adalah 0.5mm ...

so member aku ni, main hentam je..tapi last2 aku bagitahu jugak tolong buat 0.5mm lah pasal aku cakap kat dia aku tanya member aku gap dia kena 0.5mm ....so dia pun main agak2 je (spatutnya kena guna blade measure,,aku pun dah lupa ntah betol ke tak nama alat tu)...so dia cakap "yang ni lebih kurang 0.8mm..bolehla  ni"......so dia pasang semua,,,,,,,,aku start enjin...................fuhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

menjadi BEB....haha...terus setel masalah aku.....

tapi 2 minggu selepas tu, masalah yang sama muncul kembali........

so sekarang ini aku tengah lagi mencari asbab mengapa jadi begini....
hurrmmmm


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